One of the chief reasons for the eternal misunderstandings! Often the author fails to state the quantities to be used. He has a mania for giving undue prominence to expensive spices and other quite often irrelevant ingredients.
Plainly, Apicius was no writer, no editor. He was a cook. Even the most ascetic of men cannot resist the insidiousness of spicy delights, nor can he for any length of time endure the insipidity of plain food sans sauce. Hence the popularity of such sauces amongst people who do not observe the correct culinary principle of seasoning food judiciously, befitting its character, without spoiling but rather in enhancing its characteristics and in bringing out its flavor at the right time, namely during coction to give the kindred aromas a chance to blend well.
Continental nations, adhering to this important principle of cookery inherited from Apicius would not dream of using ready-made English sauces. We have watched ill-advised people maltreat good things, cooked to perfection, even before they tasted them, sprinkling them as a matter of habit, with quantities of salt and pepper, paprika, cayenne, daubing them with mustards of every variety or swamping them with one or several of the commercial sauce preparations.
Which painter would care to see his canvas varnished with all the hues in the rainbow by a patron afflicted with such a taste?
Perhaps the craving for excessive flavoring is an olfactory delirium, a pathological case, as yet unfathomed like the excessive craving for liquor, and, being a problem for the medical fraternity, it is only of secondary importance to gastronomy. As a matter of fact, the reverse is the truth. Apicius surely would be surprised at some things we enjoy. Do you recognize it? This mystery was conceived with an illustrative purpose which will be explained later, which may and may not have to do with the mystery of Apicius.
Consider, for a moment, this mysterious creation No. Worse yet! Instead of having our appetite aroused the very perusal of this quasi-Apician mixtum compositum repels every desire to partake of it. We are justly tempted to condemn it as being utterly impossible. Yet every day hundreds of thousand portions of it are sold under the name of special fruit salad with mayonnaise mousseuse. The above mystery No. Thus we could go on analyzing modern preparations and make them appear as outlandish things.
Yet we relish them every day. The ingredients, obnoxious in great quantities, are employed with common sense. We are not mystified seeing them in print; they are usually given in clear logical order. This is not the style of Apicius, however. We can hardly judge Apicius by what he has revealed but we rather should try to discover what he—purposely or otherwise—has concealed if we would get a good idea of the ancient kitchen. This thought occurred to us at the eleventh hour, after years of study of the text and after almost despairing of a plausible solution of its mysteries.
The more we scrutinize them, the more we become convinced that the author has omitted vital directions—same as we did purposely with the two modern examples above. Many of the Apician recipes are dry enumerations of ingredients supposed to belong to a given dish or sauce.
It is well-known that in chemistry cookery is but applied chemistry the knowledge of the rules governing the quantities and [28] the sequence of the ingredients, their manipulation, either separately or jointly, either successively or simultaneously, is a very important matter, and that violation or ignorance of the process may spell failure at any stage of the experiment.
In the kitchen this is particularly true of baking and soup and sauce making, the most intricate of culinary operations. There may have been two chief reasons for concealing necessary information. Every good practitioner knows, with ingredients or components given, what manipulations are required, what effects are desired. Even in the absence of detailed specifications, the experienced practitioner will be able to divine correct proportions, by intuition.
Call it inspiration, association of ideas or what you please, a single word may often prove a guide, a savior. This is sufficiently proven by the lingua coquinaria , the vulgar Latin of our old work.
In our opinion, the ancient author did not consider it worth his while to give anything but the most indispensable information in the tersest form. This he certainly did. A comparison of his literary performance with that of the artistic and accomplished writer of the Renaissance, Platina, will at once show up Apicius as a hard-working practical cook, a man who knew his business but who could not tell what he knew. These articles, written in the most laconic language possible—the language of a very busy, very harassed, very hurried man, are the literary product of a cook, or several of them.
The other chief motive for condensing or obscuring his text has a more subtle foundation. Indeed, we are surprised that we should possess so great a collection of recipes, representing to him who could use them certain commercial and social value.
The preservation of Apicius seems entirely accidental. Experienced cooks were in demand in Apicii times; the valuation of their ministrations increased proportionately to the progress in gastronomy and to the prosperity of the nation. Some cooks became confidants, even friends and advisors of men in high places, emperors, cf.
But such invisible string-pullers have not been confined to those days alone. Take Rasputin! Such being the case, what potential power reposed in a greasy cookery manuscript! And, if so, why bare such wonderful secrets to Tom, Dick and Harry?
Weights and measures are given by Apicius in some instances. But just such figures can be used artfully to conceal a trap. Any mediocre cook, gaining possession of a choice collection of detailed and itemized recipes would have been placed in an enviable position. We remember reading in Lanciani Rodolfo L. To be sure, those fellows had every reason in the world for keeping quiet: so preposterous were their methods in most cases!
This secrecy indeed must have carried with it a blessing in disguise. Professional reserve was not its object. The motive was purely commercial. Seeing where the information given by Apicius is out of reason and unintelligible we are led to believe that such text is by no means to be taken very literally. On the contrary, it is quite probable that weights and measures are not correct: they are quite likely to be of an artful and studied unreliability. A secret private code is often employed, necessitating the elimination or transposition of certain words, figures or letters before the whole will become intelligible and useful.
If by any chance an uninitiated hand should attempt to grasp such veiled directions, failure would be certain. We confess to have employed at an early stage of our own career this same strategy and time-honored camouflage to protect a precious lot of recipes. Promptly we lost this unctuous manuscript, as we feared we would; if not deciphered today, the book has long since been discarded as being a record of the ravings of a madman.
The advent of the printing press changed the situation. With Platina, ca. The guilds of French mustard makers and sauce cooks precursors of modern food firms and manufacturers of ready-made condiments were a powerful tribe of secret mongers in the middle ages. Kitchen secrets became commercial articles. In perusing Apicius only one or two instances of cruelty to animals have come to our attention cf. Cruel methods of slaughter were common. Some of the dumb beasts that were to feed man and even had to contribute to his pleasures and enjoyment of life by giving up their own lives often were tortured in cruel, unspeakable ways.
The belief existed that such methods might increase the quality, palatability and flavor of the meat. Such beliefs and methods may still be encountered on the highways and byways in Europe and Asia today.
Since the topic, strictly speaking does not belong here, we cannot depict it in detail, and in passing make mention of it to refer students interested in the psychology of the ancients to such details as are found in the writings of Plutarch and other ancient writers during the early Christian era. It must be remembered, however, that such writers including the irreproachable Plutarch were advocates of vegetarianism. Some passages are inspired by true humane feeling, but much appears to be written in the interest of vegetarianism.
The ancients were not such confirmed meat eaters as the modern Western nations, merely because the meat supply was not so ample. Beef was scarce because of the shortage of large pastures. The cow was sacred, the ox furnished motive power, and, after its usefulness was gone, the muscular old brute had little attraction for the gourmet.
Today lives a race of beef eaters. Our beef diet, no doubt is bound to change somewhat. The North American prairies are being parcelled off into small farms the working conditions of which make beef raising expensive. Perhaps Northern Asia still holds in store a large future supply of meat but this no doubt will be claimed by [31] Asia. Already North America is acclimating the Lapland reindeer to offset the waning beef, to utilize its Northern wastes. With the increasing shortage of beef, with the increasing facilities for raising chicken and pork, a reversion to Apician methods of cookery and diet is not only probably but actually seems inevitable.
The ancient bill of fare and the ancient methods of cookery were entirely guided by the supply of raw materials—precisely like ours. They had no great food stores nor very efficient marketing and transportation systems, food cold storage. They knew, however, to take care of what there was. They were good managers. Such atrocities as the willful destruction of huge quantities of food of every description on the one side and starving multitudes on the other as seen today never occurred in antiquity.
Many of the Apician dishes will not appeal to the beef eaters. It is worthy of note that much criticism was heaped upon Apicius some years ago in England when beef eating became fashionable in that country. The art of Apicius requires practitioners of superior intellect. But practitioners that would pass the requirements of the Apician school are scarce in the kitchens of the beef eaters. A glance at some Chinese and Japanese methods of cookery may perhaps convince us of the probability of these remarks.
Nothing is more perplexing and more alarming than a new dish, but we can see in a reversion to Apician cookery methods only a dietetic benefit accruing to this so-called white race of beef eaters. Apicius certainly excels in the preparation of vegetable dishes cf. Properly prepared, many of these things are good, often more nutritious than the dearer cuts, and sometimes they are really delicious.
One has but to study the methods of ancient and intelligent people who have suffered for thousands of years under the perennial shortage of food supplies in order to understand and to appreciate Apician methods.
Be it far from us to advocate their methods, or to wish upon us the conditions that engendered such methods; for such practices have been pounded into these people by dire necessity. They have graduated from the merciless school of hunger.
Food materials, we repeat, were never as cheap and as abundant as they are today. But who can say that they always will be so in the future? We must not overlook the remarkable intuition displayed by the ancients in giving preference to foods with body- and blood-building properties. For instance, the use of liver, particularly fish liver already referred to. The correctness of their choice is now being confirmed by scientific re-discoveries. The young science of nutrition is important enough to an individual who would stimulate or preserve his health.
But since constitutions are different, the most carefully conceived dietary may apply to one particular individual only, provided, however, that our present knowledge of nutrition be correct and final. This knowledge, as a matter of fact, is being revised and changed constantly. If dietetics, therefore, were important enough to have any bearing at all upon the well-defined methods of cookery, we might go into detail analyzing ancient methods from that point of view.
Without these qualities there can be no higher gastronomy. Without high gastronomy no high civilization is possible. With the progress of civilization we are farther and farther drifting away from it.
It guides great chefs, saves time spent in scientific study. Apicius is often blamed for his endeavor to serve one thing under the guise of another. The reasons for such deceptions are various ones. Fashion dictated it. Also the ambition of hosts to serve a cheaper food for a more expensive one—veal for chicken, pork for partridge, and so on. In Europe even today much of the traditional roast hare is caught in the alley, and it belongs to a feline species.
There is positive evidence of downright frauds and vicious food adulteration in the times of Apicius. The old rascal himself is not above giving directions for rose wine without roses, or how to make a spoiled honey marketable, and other similar adulterations.
Too, some of our own shams are liable to misinterpretation. What indeed would a serious-minded research worker a thousand years hence if unfamiliar with our culinary practice and traditions make of such terms as pette de nonne as found in many old French cookery books, or of the famous suttelties subtleties —the confections once so popular at medieval weddings? The ramifications of the lingua coquinaria in any country are manifold, and the culinary wonderland is full of pitfalls even for the experienced gourmet.
Like in all other branches of ancient endeavor, cookery had reached a state of perfection around the time of Apicius when the only chance for successful continuation of the art lay in the conquest of new fields, i.
We have witnessed this in French cookery which for the last hundred years has successfully expanded and has virtually captured the civilized parts of the globe, subject however, always to regional and territorial modifications. This desirable expansion of antique cookery did not take place. It was violently and rather suddenly checked principally by political and economic events during the centuries following Apicius, perhaps principally by the forces that caused the great migration the very quest of food!
Suspension ensued instead. The heirs to the ancient culture were not yet ready for their marvelous heritage. Both are so subtle and they depend so much upon the psychology and the economic conditions of a people, and they thus presented almost unsurmountable obstacles to the invaders. Still lo! The usefulness in our days of Apicius as a practical cookery book has been questioned, but we leave this to our readers to decide after the perusal of this translation.
If not useful in the kitchen, if we cannot grasp its moral, what, then, is Apicius? Merely a curio? The existing manuscripts cannot be bought; the old printed editions are highly priced by collectors, and they are rare. Still, the few persons able to read the messages therein cannot use them: they are not practitioners in cookery.
None of the Apician editors except Danneil and the writer were experienced practising gastronomers. Humelbergius, Lister, Bernhold were medical men. Two serious students, Schuch and Wuestemann, gave up academic positions to devote a year to the study of modern cookery in order to be able to interpret Apicius. These enthusiasts overlooked, however, two facts: Apicius cannot be understood by inquiring into modern average cookery methods, nor can complete mastery of cookery, practical as well as theoretical, including the historical and physiological aspects of gastronomy be acquired in one year.
Richard Gollmer, another Apicius editor, declares that the results of this course in gastronomy were negative. Gollmer published a free version of Apicius in German in If he did not render the original very faithfully and literally, it must be said in all fairness that his methods of procedure were correct.
Gollmer attempted to interpret the ancient text for the modern reader. Unfortunately he based his work upon that of Schuch and Wuestemann and Lister. A year or so later Eduard Danneil published a version of his own, also based on Schuch. This editor is a practising chef ,— Hof-Traiteur or caterer to the court of one of the then reigning princes of Germany. In view of the fact that Gollmer had covered the ground and that Danneil added nothing new to Apician lore, his publication seems superfluous.
Unfortunately, the span of human life is short, the capacity of the human mind is limited. Fruitful achievements in widely different fields of endeavor by one man are rare.
This is merely to illustrate the extreme difficulty encountered by anyone bent on a venturesome exploration of our subject and the very narrow chances of success to extricate himself with grace from the two-thousand year old labyrinth of philosophical, historical, linguistical and gastronomical technicalities.
We have purposely refrained from presenting here a treatise in the customary scientific style. We know, there are repetitions, digressions, excursions into adjacent fields that may be open to criticism. We really do not aim to make this critical review an exhibition of scholarly attainments with all the necessary brevity, clarity, scientific restraint and etiquette.
Such style would be entirely out of our line. Any bookish flavor attaching itself to our work would soon replace a natural fragrance we aim to preserve, namely our close contact with the subject. Those interested in the scholarly work that has been contributed to this cause are referred to modern men like Vollmer, Giarratano, Brandt and others named in the bibliography. Of the older scientists there is Martinus Lister, a man whose knowledge of the subject is very respectable and whose devotion to it is unbounded, whose integrity as a scientist is above reproach.
The labors of Bernhold and Schuch are meritorious also, the work, time, and esprit these men have devoted to the subject is enormous. As for Torinus, the opinions are divided. Humelbergius ignores him, Gryphius pirates him, Lister scorns him, we like him. Lister praises his brother physician, Humelbergius: Doctus quidem vir et modestus! So he is! The notes by Humelbergius alone and his word: Nihil immutare ausi summus! Unfortunately, the sources of his information are unknown.
Lacking these, we have of course no means of ascertaining whether he always lived up to his word that he is not privileged to change. Humelbergius and Lister may have made contributions of value from a philological point of view but their work appears to have less merit gastronomically than that of Torinus.
To us the Basel editor often seems surprisingly correct in cases where the gastronomical character of a formula is in doubt. In rendering the ancient text into English we, too, have endeavored to follow [36] Humelbergii example; hence the almost literal translation of the originals before us, namely, Torinus, Humelbergius, Lister, Bernhold, Schuch and the latest, Giarratano-Vollmer which reached us in in time for collating.
We have wavered often and long whether or not to place alongside this English version the original Latin text, but due to the divergencies we have finally abandoned the idea, for practical reasons alone.
In translating we have endeavored to clear up mysteries and errors; this interpretation is a work quite apart and independent of that of the translation.
It is merely the sum and substance of our practical experience in gastronomy. It is not to be taken as an attempt to change the original but is presented in good faith, to be taken on its face value. This interpretation appears in the form of notes directly under each article, for quick reference and it is our wish that it be of some practical service in contributing to the general understanding and appreciation of our ancient book.
For the sake of expediency we have numbered and placed a title in English on each ancient recipe, following the example of Schuch. This procedure may be counted against us as a liberty taken with the text. The text has remained inviolate.
We have merely aimed at a rational and legible presentation—work within the province and the duty of an editor-translator and technical expert. We do not claim credit for any other work connected with the task of making this most unique book accessible to the English speaking public and for the competition for scholastic laurels we wish to stay hors de combat.
We feel we are not privileged to pass final judgment upon the excellent work done by sympathetic and erudite admirers of our ancient book throughout the better part of four centuries, and we cannot side with one or the other in questions philological, historical, or of any other nature, except gastronomical.
We are deeply indebted to all of our predecessors and through conversations and extensive correspondence with other modern researchers, Dr. Edward Brandt and Dr. Wilson, we are enabled to predict new developments in Apician research. The debates of the scientists, it appears, are not yet closed. A jolly fellow is Apicius with a basketful of happy messages for a hungry world. We therefore want to make this work of ours the entertainment and instruction the subject deserves to be.
After all, we live in a practical age, and it is the practical value, the matter-of-fact contribution to our happiness and well-being by the work of any man, ancient or modern, which counts in these days of materialism. We do not know who Apicius is. We do not know who wrote the book bearing [37] his name. We do not know when it was written, or whether it is of Greek or of Roman origin. Furthermore, we do not understand many of its precepts!
Eager gourmets , ever on the look-out for something new, and curious scholars have attempted to prepare dishes in the manner prescribed by Apicius.
Most of such experimenters have executed the old precepts literally, instead of trying to enter into their spirit. The friends of Apicius who failed to heed this advice, also failed to comprehend the precepts, they were cured of their curiosity, and blamed the master for their own shortcomings. Christina, queen of Sweden, was made ill by an attempt of this kind to regale her majesty with a rare Apician morsel while in Italy as the guest of some noble.
But history is dark on this point. But Apicius continued to prove unhealthful to a number of later amateurs. Lister, with his perfectly sincere endeavor to popularize Apicius, achieved precisely the opposite.
The publication of his work in London, , was the signal for a number of people, scholars and others, to crack jokes, not at the expense of Apicius, as they imagined, but to expose their own ignorance.
Smollet, Dr. Hunter and others. Even later, in one of the alas! After all, the proof of the pudding is in the eating. This homely solid wisdom is literally true of our good old Apicius. We have tested many of his precepts, and have found them practical, good, even delightful. A few, we will say, are of the rarest beauty and of consummate perfection in the realm of gastronomy, while some others again are totally unintelligible for reasons sufficiently explained.
Many of the ancient formula tried have our unqualified gastronomic approval. If our work has not differed from that of our predecessors, if it shows the same human frailties and foibles, we have at least one mark of distinction among the editors in that we have subjected the original to severe practical tests as much as this is possible with our modern food materials. We experienced difficulty in securing certain spices long out of use.
This is a feeling of partaking of an entirely new dish, met with both expectancy and with suspicion, accentuated by the hallowed traditions surrounding it which has rewarded us for the time and expense devoted to the subject. When we behold hordes of ancient legislators, posing as dervishes of moderation, secretly and openly breaking the prohibition laws of their own making When we turn away from such familiar sights and, in a more jovial mood, heartily laugh at the jokes of that former mill slave, Plautus who could not pay his bills and when we wonder why his wise cracks sound so familiar we remember that we have heard their modern versions only yesterday at the Tivoli on State Street Then we arrive at the comforting conclusion that we moderns are either very ancient and backward or that indeed the ancients are very modern and progressive; and it is our only regret that we cannot decide this perplexing situation to our lasting satisfaction.
Very true, there may be nothing new under the sun, yet nature goes on eternally fashioning new things from old materials. Eternally demolishing old models in a manner of an economical sculptor, nature uses the same old clay to create new specimens. Sometimes nature slightly alters the patterns, discarding what is unfit for her momentary enigmatic purposes, retaining and favoring that which pleases her whimsical fancy for the time being.
In the perpetual search for perfection, life has accomplished one remarkable thing: the development of man, the animal which cooks. Gradually nature has revealed herself to man principally through the food he takes, cooks and prepares for the enjoyment of himself and his fellow men. The gastronomer is grateful for the privilege of holding the custodianship of such precious things, and he guards it like an office of a sacred rite—ever gratefully, reverently adoring, cherishing the things before him Or, they are cranky, hungry, starved, miserable, and they turn savage now and then.
Some are gluttonous. If they were told that they must kill before they may cook—that might spoil the appetite and dinner joy of many a tender-hearted devourer of fellow-creatures. Heaven forbid! Being real children of nature, and behaving naturally, nature likes them, and we, too, certainly are well pleased with the majority.
The Greek titles of the ten books point to a common Greek origin, indicating that Apicius is a collection of Greek monographs on various branches of cookery, specialization such as highly developed civilizations would produce. Both the literary style and the contents of the books point to different authors, as may be seen from the very repetitions of and similarities in subjects as in VI and VIII , and in IX and X.
The absence of books on bread and cake baking, dessert cookery indicates that the present Apicius is not complete. Apicius is correct in starting his book with this formula, as all meals were started with this sort of mixed drink.
Melirhomum ; non extat. The honey could not be preserved perpetuum by the addition of pepper. Any addition, as a matter of fact, would hasten its deterioration unless the honey were boiled and sealed tight, which the original takes for granted. Camerinum is a town in Umbria. These wines compounded of roses and violets move the bowels strongly.
He says, Alias die erit candidum while Tor. This is unusual, although the ancients have at times treated wine with sea water. Move spica ; Goll. Fate has decreed that ill-smelling broths shall be discarded. Method still popular today for pickling raw meats. The originals treat of cooked meats Tor. Dispensing with the honey, we use more spices, whole pepper, cloves, bay leaves, also onions and root vegetables.
Sometimes a little sugar and wine is added to this preparation which the French call marinade and the Germans Sauerbraten-Einlage. Method still in practice today.
Salt mackerel, finnan haddie, etc. Besides it would do no good. Take oysters out of the shell, place in vinegar barrel, sprinkle with laurel berries, fine salt, close tight. There is no way to keep live oysters fresh except in their natural habitat—salt water. Today we pack them in barrels, feed them with oatmeal, put weights on them—of no avail.
The only way English oysters could have arrived fresh in Imperial Rome was in specially constructed bottoms of the galleys. Making an ounce of laser go a long way. Lister, fond of hair-splitting, is irreconcilably opposed to Tor.
Quam futilis sit in multis labor C. We side with Tor. This article illustrates how sparingly the ancients used the strong and pungent laser flavor [by some believed to be asa foetida ] because it was very expensive, but principally because the Roman cooks worked economically and knew how to treat spices and flavors judiciously.
It reminds of the methods used by European cooks to get the utmost use out of the expensive vanilla bean: they bury the bean in a can of powdered sugar. They will use the sugar only which has soon acquired a delicate vanilla perfume, and will replace the used sugar by a fresh supply.
It is more gastronomical and more economical. Most commercial extracts are synthetic, some injurious. To believe that any of them impart to the dishes the true flavor desired is of course ridiculous. The enormous consumption of such extracts however, is characteristic of our industrialized barbarism which is so utterly indifferent to the fine points in food. Today it is indeed hard for the public to obtain a real vanilla bean.
We all agree with Lister that this is contemptible business. Excellent idea, for the stems, if removed, would leave a wound in the fruit for the air to penetrate and to start fermentation. Not quite identified. Fruit coming from Asia Minor, Media or Persia, one of the many varieties of citrus fruit. Probably citron because of their size. Lemon-apples; Dann. Turnips, in the first place, are not in need of any special method of preservation.
They keep very well in a cool, well-ventilated place; in fact they would hardly keep very long if treated in the above manner. Clean [peel] the truffles Our originals have nothing that would warrant this interpretation. AND G. White pepper and ginger omitted by Tor. Edward Brandt, op. The African root furnishing laser was exterminated by the demand for it.
Laser in Index. Silphij folium ; List. Sylphium, folium ; G. Silfi, folium , the latter two interpretations meaning silphium laser and leaves either nard or bay leaves while both Tor. Directions wanting whether the above ingredients are to be added to the already prepared garum , which see in dictionary. Strain this through a hair sieve and keep it in glass flask for future use. This formula, according to Goll. Oenogarum proper would be a garum prepared with wine, but in this instance it is the broth in which the truffles were cooked that is to be flavored with the above ingredients.
There is no need and no mention of garum proper. Thus prepared it might turn out to be a sensible sauce for truffles in the hands of a good practitioner. This formula, lacking detailed instructions, is of course perfectly obscure, and it would be useless to debate over it. This carenum is new wine boiled down one half of its volume. Cariotum is a palm wine or date wine. Not a bad interpretation if instead of the broth the original called for wine or fruit juices.
Mortaria are ingredients crushed in the mortar, ready to be used in several [58] combinations, similar to the ground fine herbs, remoulade , in French cuisine that may be used for various purposes, principally for cold green sauces. XV in G. The intricate design of the perforation denotes that this strainer was used for straining wine.
Various other strainers of simpler design, with and without handles, were used in the kitchen and bakery. Round bowl, fluted symmetrically, with three claw feet, resting on molded bases. Artoptes ; Tac. This may have been derived from artopta —a vessel in which bread and pudding are baked. Ambolatum , and so in Tor. Sentence wanting in other texts. Forcemeats, minced meats, sausage.
Hysitia , from Isicia. This term is derived from insicium , from salsicium , from salsum insicium , cut salt meat; old French salcisse , saulcisse , modern [62] French saucisse , meaning sausage.
This is a confirmation of the meaning of the word salsum —meaning primarily salt meat, bacon in particular. This formula plainly calls for fish balls braised or stewed in broth. Ordinarily we would boil the fish first and then separate the meat from the bones, shred or chop it fine, bind with cream sauce, flour and eggs; some add potatoes as a binder, and fry. Pulmentum , abbreviated for pulpamentum , from pulpa. It means a fleshy piece of fish or meat, a tid-bit.
Most likely these fish forcemeat balls were fried in olive oil. A case where it is taken for granted that the shellfish is boiled in water alive. The broth liquamen is a thick fish sauce in this case, serving as a binder for the meat, conforming to present methods. The ante tamen of the original belongs to this sentence, not to the next, as the editors have it.
The original continues without interruption to the next, an entirely new formula. Note 2 to No. According to Lister, this is a dish of mushrooms, but he is wrong. Torinus is correct. Gollmer makes the same mistake, believing spondyli to be identical with spongioli. It is possible that these dishes were served together as one course, even on one platter, thus constituting a single dish, as it were. Olive oil. The suggestion of oil is plausible because of the lack of fat in chicken meat, but the quantity—1 lb.
Moreover, the binder would be lacking. This is found in the Torinus rendering. The seeds of this grass were supposed to possess narcotic properties but recent researches have cast doubt upon this theory. A little butter, fresh cream and eggs are the proper ingredients for chicken forcemeat.
Any kind of flour for binding the forcemeat would cheapen the dish. Yet some modern forcemeats sausage contain as much as fifty percent of some kind of meal. The most effective is that of the soya bean which is not starchy.
This seems to be a chicken broth, or essence for a sauce or perhaps a medicine. Torinus mentions the chicken meat, the others do not. The original without interruption continues to describe the isicium simplex which has nothing to do with the above.
The formula is unintelligible, like No. Ab aheno —out of the pot. Amylum , or amulum which hereafter will occur frequently in the original does not cover the ground as well as the French term roux.
Sometimes the fat and flour are parched, sometimes they are used raw. Sometimes the flour is diluted with water and used in that form. Apicius 22 places special emphasis on the transmission of passions between members of the same family and between couples united by gastronomy. You have it in your hands. The sky is the limit… And this show comes to an end.
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